Thursday, September 16, 2010

Things I have Learned in Vietnam

1.  Nhung was right.  You do get used to the honking.  Now only really loud horns bother me (namely cars) but other than that, I just recognize somebody is there and don't get hit.  Easy as that.  Today I saw a comic with two people pushing shopping carts in a grocery store saying beep, beep, beep and I laughed.  Vietnamese humor.

2.  I am wayyy to dark.  Having dark skin is a sign of lower class in many Asian countries (You mean you actually go outside to do work and not hire someone else to do it?  You walk instead of taking a Lexus?  Hah, you're poor!) and even men around here sometimes walk around with an umbrella to avoid getting a tan (or avoid skin cancer...maybe they are just health conscious over here).  I don't care (because I'm American and I'm Richer than all of ya'll - actually not really...see number 3) and tend to walk around a lot, getting even darker than normal and because of this, a lot of people don't think I'm Vietnamese; I have heard Cambodian, Chinese, Laotian, and Filipino - I know, how insulting as I am clearly above those!  Then, when people ask me what I am and I tell them Vietnamese, they generally ask if my mom or dad is Vietnamese.  Now, I didn't piece this together until recently but they think I'm mixed with something.  So what should I be mixed with?

3.  Contrary to the Communist Manifesto, there are a LOT of wealthy people here.  Like Porsche and Bentley and (Real) Louis Vuitton.  I went into a Nike store a couple of weeks ago and Nike Free are 120 US dollars, about 35 dollars more than the US.  I always wondered how stores stay afloat but I guess someone is buying these shoes and purses.

4.  Vietnamese people are...how to say this nicely...rude.  Like I said in my car rant, you just don't take anything personal, it is just a different world but it does come off as rude in my opinion.  You throw trash on the ground.  Many restaurants just toss dirty water on the street, even if you are walking there.  They are more blunt and forceful.  A parking attendant was trying to grab people while they were driving motorbikes, trying to physically pull them in.  There are no lines, you just go to the front and yell as loud as you can (Fox News Technique). My taxi driver almost hit a pedestrian - it would have taken literately 3 seconds to brake and let him pass but the taxi driver accelerated.  It is just how they live.  Back in the States, I would know an Asian restaurant had good potential (more "authentic" you could say) if the service is horrible because that was an indicator they had people from Asia (unlike "good service" but nasty food PF Changs - Yeah I said it).  But here, it is much more to handle because it is everywhere.  (I'm also a bit of hypocrite - Once I was semi-late for a show and this taxi driver got us there early because he was being a major ahole on the road but that doesn't count because I was in the car.  Umm...ever heard of Fulbright?  Yeah.)

5.  That being said, Vietnamese people in the North are extremely nice.  What do you mean?  Unlike what people have told me (cough* mom and dad!! *cough), "North" people have been very helpful and generally don't try to rip me off or other foreigners, as far as I have seen.  I have brought food at the market for fair prices even though many of them know I'm not a local (too dark, heavily accented Vietnamese).  I can hear the prices they give to locals and it has always been the same.  When I have asked people for help (buying helmets, help translating, directions, etc.) I never had have a problem.  It is like totally opposite from their driving - when something is personal, they really try hard to help out.  Yes, not all people are angels and there are douchbags but those exist everywhere.        

6.  Lastly, I have improper chopstick technique.  I have never used chopsticks for this long consecutively and my finger joints hurt so I am doing something wrong.  It seems I have gotten away with it in America just on pure, natural chopstick skills but not I can't rely on that solely.

One pic, sorry for too much reading.

In the Army Museum - the "Puppet" Flag of Vietnam - Their words not mine so don't get all fussy.


tony

Film Stuff

I guess since I'm here doing a film studies project, I should talk about film.  When people ask me why the hell I am here, I tell them about my project and here is what I have heard about Vietnamese films: boring, amateur, too long, not great, not exciting like Avatar, not progressive, and so on.  I should note that these are mostly young people (under 22).  So as you can see, Vietnamese cinema is not doing so well in their own country, especially with youth.

Nevertheless, I proceeded to find some of these films to actually see them.  Marking my mental map, I plot a path to 5 dvd stores/"professional" rip and burn DVD to see what films I can find.  First store was Fox Movies, a very highly rated store by http://newhanoian.xemzi.com/, a popular expat review website.  "Sorry, we don't have any Vietnamese films."  Hmmm....not a good start but it makes good business sense.  If locals dislike these films, why would expats want them?  Okay, so I proceed to the next stop, Hollywood DVDs.  I was having doubts that a store named "Hollywood" would carry Vietnamese films but it was a much bigger store than Fox.  So I go up to the counter and ask if they have any films and show them a list.  They stared at me strangely and after a mini-conference (Do we? was passed around), they gave a very weak "yes."  So we went up the stairs to the second level and in a small box on the ground was their Vietnamese collection (every wall was covered with burned copies of the latest films).  Out of my list of 10 movies, they found 2 but that is better than nothing.  Strange thing is that they had the entire collection of Doogie Howser MD for 465 K (24 dollar-ish), five copies of WWE Wresting, Lost season 5 but only 2 of my films.  Hmmm.

After that, I decided one more place would be good enough.  I visited Victory CD and they were really nice.  I gave them my list and they found 3 more movies PLUS called another store and had someone run it over - Good service in Vietnam!?!?  All in all, I got 8 movies (I brought some older ones just to watch) for 120 K (6 dollars).  Just FYI, Hollywood movies are about 30 K each if you want to watch Date Night or Hannah Montana.  Yes no pictures.

Army Museum


These pictures are about 2 weeks old but let's ignore that fact and just pretend I'm not doing this late in a cafe that is playing Taylor Swift.  So here is the aftermath of my mosquito attack.  One leg had about 65 and the other had about 50 or so.  Luckily, these aren't Texas mosquitoes as these bites were very tiny red spots that itched very little compared to the ones I get in Texas.  However, since I did have 122 of them, they did have a collective effect and produced a very mild, yet annoying itch.  Still, it lasted only about 2 days and I either wrapped my legs with a wet, frozen towel or used itching creme like body lotion.

So later on that week, I went to the Army Museum which is across the street from where I live.  Overall, a very interesting spot and had a bunch of military vehicles (mainly U.S) as "trophies," I guess.  A very cool place to get my testosterone levels up.    

Mines and Booby Traps
Another Guillotine?  Boring...
War Art?

"Human Flesh containing Basket: French Colonialists had forced our folks to buy cut up flesh of their own cadres"

Here are some pics from the Hanoi Flag Tower:

Sunday, September 5, 2010

Fulbright Briefings + Ha Long Bay


Last week we had "briefings" with the Fulbright Program and various people from the Embassy.  From my notes, this is what we learned:

The Government is probably monitoring my emails, blogs, and any internet activity I do for the first couple of weeks, just to check me out (so no email sexting!).  Then, most likely, they will leave me alone (with occasional check-ups) once they see I am just doing my film studies project.  If you're reading this, I sure do love Vietnam and their government!! (Also, I have been having problems accessing this site...)
Crossing the street is the most dangerous thing you can do and if not careful, you WILL die.
If you eat anything off the street, you WILL die.  (The Embassy doctor was a bit dramatic, but I guess he was trying to stress the importance of eating clean food).
If you go shopping for food on the street, you WILL die or get multiple viruses, bacterial infections, medical conditions, etc.
You will have a sore throat for the duration of your grant because of the pollution/smog/dust.  (This was good and bad news for me - I didn't know if I was getting sick with a cold but as it turns out, it is just the dust.  However, I have a damn sore throat for 10 months...).
If you do eat dog or cat, don't eat the brain because that is where rabies is concentrated the most.  (Good to know).
Presently, there are zero American political prisoners in Vietnam.  Hopefully, it will stay that way...
Generally, many topics are free to discuss in class (capitalism, democracy (to a point), religion, feminism, sexuality (to a point)) as long as you are not waving signs and/or attempting to organize.  Nevertheless, you should be careful.  Shouldn't be a problem for me because I hate democracy, right Government reader?



I also got to meet the other Fulbrighters and they are a very cool bunch: 3 scholars and 6 students (including me).  One scholar got his PhD from A&M and the other two scholars (they're married) live in Burleson, TX and teach in Texas Wesleyan and Baylor.  Whoop whoop for Texas.  Our topics range from tourism, law, economics, journalism, art (painting), new media (very interesting project on open-source software in Nam), medical equipment, architecture/urban development, and of course, film studies.

The next day we went to visit the Vietnam Maritime University in Haiphong (the 3rd largest city in Vietnam and the largest port in the North) and discussed the University structure in Vietnam.  Basically, it is reversed from the U.S. - The Government controls all of the funding, curriculum, and degrees (a centralized sturcture) as opposed to the schools having most of the control in the US.  Most schools are slowly transitioning to more Western/US curriculum but they still have to be approved by the Vietnamese Government--some schools, like the Maritime University, are copying curriculum in the US, except they remove some classes that are "unnecessary, like American History." There is also that small issue of protecting the freedom of speech of professors.  Minor detail.

After that we drove to Ha Long Bay, took a boat to Cat Ba Island and checked in a hotel:


 We also went "hiking" (well four of us did, the rest decided to chill on the beach) which turned out a bit more of hike/rock climbing up a 3 km mountain.  It was ridiculously hot at the top with the sun but it was well worth it.  Oh and wear mosquito repellent - I got 122 mosquito bites in those 2 hours after getting none in Hanoi.  Everyone who got bit in the city didn't get bit during the hike.


I must have good country-side blood.


top of the mountain
Our hotel with surprisingly bad beds
the easy part of the trail


tony